Finally... some pictures

Kubwinja Ethnic Lodge

These musicians/dancers were my first introduction to traditional African talent - the guy on the far left (the main dancer) could move in ways I didn't even know was possible! This woman and child to the right are the family of the lodge owner. She was pumping the water from their well and later showed us how she balances it on her head - so incredible! She was also very excited to see herself on a digital camera - everyone here thinks it is so funny to see themselves right away....















These kids were swarming us outside the tailor's while we were in Area 25 getting our chitenjes (wraps) made. They were all yelling Mzungu and wanted their pictures taken as they too love to see themselves.

This little boy out front in the blue sweater was one of my favourites because he wasn't too pushy... some of the kids were being really violent trying to get in front, but he just waited his turn patiently.... and had the most adorable smile.

Below is a sign that was displayed on the wall of a mini-bus (what we take to work everyday) - I thought it was a great depiction of the way many Malawians view women....

Okay I really hated having that as my last picture but the internet cafe has become too busy that pictures won't load... I'm going to have to try to do more tomorrow....

I hope you enjoyed the few....

xo Michelle

PS. I just looked at the preview and the formatting isn't coming out the same but this will have to do for now...

Culture & Language Training - Salima, Lake Malawi

Yesterday, we returned from a week of culture and language training at the Carolina Beach Resort on Lake Malawi in the Salima District. Monday and Tuesday were culture training from 8 am to 4 pm while Thursday and Friday consisted of the language training. We were given an hour and a half for lunch everyday to spend time on the beach but we were generally swarmed by Malawians trying to sell their crafts - for example, jewellery, wood carvings, paintings, etc.

Bargaining here is like nothing I've ever experienced. It's actually quite sad because instead of them seeing us as volunteers here to help, they only see a dollar sign and increase their prices by 4x what a Malawian would be charged. The funny thing is that when I ask how much something costs and then how much they would charge a Malawian they don't hesitate to tell me the difference. They'd also pick-up our names and then go to the front desk of the lodge and request to see us... just to try to sell.... it was so weird, definitely no privacy. Anyway in the end I feel like the deals we made were fair for both parties and I think everyone will be happy with what I bring back.

Anyway back to the training, the culture days were somewhat redundant to what we had already learned and as a class of all women (accept for one male) some of the conversations became pretty heated in terms of gender issues. Even the facilitator had very sexist views.... when we discussed changing names upon marriage his words were - "a woman who doesn't change her last name to her husbands will be seen as not being full committed to her husband" - and when asked about men changing their names he said "never, it is our identity" - it was just funny in that it implied that women's last names are not their identity. You can't take offense when it is part of the culture, I just find it interesting and having been brought up in the western world, kind of funny. Oh on a side note there were 10 Canadians in the training, two Malawians, and one Tanzianian, all volunteers of WUSC. Wednesday was also culture based as we got to go to a cultural centre in the village of Mau to see traditional dances and visit a museum. It was very interesting learning about all the different tribes in Malawi and the speicifics of each throughout all the stages of life. The dances also varried among the tribes but told the most incredible stories. I filmed a couple of them so hopefully they'll work when I get back to Canada.

Thursday and Friday were spent learning Chichewa - the 2nd official language of Malawi, the first being English. We learned many nouns and verbs as well as tenses and conjugations. It was incredible how much we picked up in just two days, although it will be interesting to see how much we retain when forced to communicate in Chichewa in the villages. Tomorrow we'll be back at work with our partner organizations. Shannon and I must create our summer work plan (which is really only for 5 weeks) as well as a budget request to WUSC to get funding for some of their programs. I think we'd like to continue paying for the porridge provided to OSHI Kids (a program last year's team started) where kids come to play futball on Saturdays (soccer to Canadians) and then get a meal of porridge afterwards. Tokho (our direct supervisor) told us for some this is their only full meal in a week so they try to ration it. They also don't have a ball right now so we want to provide them enough to last them until next summer when OSHI 2009 comes.

We booked our safari last week, and although we wanted it for the end of July, as something to look forward to, the last weekend available was from July 3rd to 6th, so that's when we have to go. The 6th of July is Malawi's Independence Day so we don't have to work on Monday either, but then starting Tuesday we'll be there for the rest of our time in Malawi. I think we're all looking forward to getting into our work, since that is what motivated us to come here, although WUSC puts the most importance on a culutural exchange between both Northern and Southern partners.

I'm going to try to write a blog entry after the Canada Day festivities here in Malawi as we've been invited by a consultant from CIDA to a Canada Day party! I will do my best, although there may not be another entry until we return from safari. If you're interested in reading about it now here is the link... http://www.kiboko-safaris.com/framesafaris.html
We are doing the "4 Days South Luangwa NP Experience" in Zambia, and I'm so excited. I think I am most excited to see giraffes and elephants - especially since they won't be behind fences like in the zoos.

Feel free to leave a comment anytime - I love hearing from home!

HAPPY CANADA DAY EVERYONE! I truly believe that we live in the best nation in the world!

xo Michelle

World Refugee Day

June 20th 2008 was World Refugee Day and we were lucky enough to be invited to celebrate at a refugee camp 40 minutes North of Linlongwe. We took a mini-bus with 8 other Canadians that are contracting with WUSC. WUSC has a program where they send approx 18 refugees to do their University studies in Canada every year. They are chosen 2 years in advance from a group of over 300, and must immediately begin studies in English and French. We got to go to their school to meet all of them, and then they showed us around the refugee camp - population of approximately 95,000 (you wouldn't believe how small it actually was in space... perhaps the size of harrison park for all of you from Owen sound. That's not including the bush there but containing 95,000 people, WOW)

I think that the majority of the students coming to canada were around our ages, only two females, the rest males, and were from many different countries for example; Congo, Uganda, Rwanda, and the guy that showed me through the village was from Burundi. I will tell you more about him later. The school consisted of one room but there were desks which is considered rare. They have several books but are in need of a bookshelf, so all of us Canadians each contributed 500 MWK ($3.50 CAD) which is enough for them to get a bookshelf to hold their books. They were so happy.

So Misago, the guy that showed me the camp, was displaced in 1994 from Burundi. He then lived in Uganda until 2006 which is when he was displaced to Malawi. He has been here ever since. He is considered a lucky one because he has his refugee status card. When he left Burundi in 1994 he lost track of his parents and siblings and hasn't heard from them since. He has no idea if they are even alive. I cannot imagine the feeling. While in Uganda he did 3 years of University (on scholarhsip because he is insanely smart - my words not his) so he is pursuing a degree in law once in Canada. He hasn't chosen his university yet, but WUSC only supports them for one year so during his year he hopes to find a sponsor to continue is studies and would like to stay in Canada forever if possible.

He had some really funny questions about Canadians - like why do we even get married if everyone divorces, and if a white women will ever love him.... it was really cute..... I didn't hesitate to throw in that I have a boyfriend... hehe. I also showed him some pictures from Canada and when he saw the snow he was horrified - he thinks having to wear all the clothes we wear in Winter looks so funny.

I was very fortunate in that Joyce (the women from WUSC who we have been spending lots of time with) was close by to us as we walked through the rows and rows of huts separated by grass fences that when he offered to show me his house, she came with me. I wouldn't have accepted otherwise, I've learned here there is no such thing as being too careful. As white people we are a huge target for Malawians that want money.... which is pretty much all. Anyway his house was two rooms, one where he slept which I didn't see, and one maybe 5 feet by six feet and you had to crouch where he kept his desk and newspaper clippings of white women and soccer players. Everyone here is obsessed with soccer. He also had cd's hanging from the ceiling as decorations. Joyce took a picture of me at the desk but these computers can't take pictures. As soon as I find one I will put some photos online.

We then went to the celebration for world refugee day and were treated like celebrities. There was a covered shelter for all of us to sit under along with the "important" people from Malawi, UN, World food fun, etc.) Then all the refugees had to sit under the sun on the dirt in a large semi circle and there was entertainment inside the circle, although they all faced us on the chairs. There were lots of songs and dances (all traditional for their tribe or country they came from) as well as an acrobatics act - they were incredible - better than anything I've ever seen in Canada!!

It was such an incredible day - one I will remember for the rest of my life!

We leave for Lake Malawi again tomorrow (Salima District) and will be there for the week for culture and language training. We started here in Lilongwe last week and learned sooooo much about Malawian culture - the differences are unreal. For example, when having a meal, the elders eat first (they get the best cut of meat) then the parents (mother included) get to eat the rest and the children must eat the scraps (directly off the bone). It made me think of how in Canada our parents (especially mothers) always put kids before everything else. We also learned how to greet cheifs in the villages - we have to get down on our knees and shake their hand until they let go (which may be a long time). We also learned that when girls and boys are 12 or 13 they go through initiation, which is a process of becoming "an adult". The ceremony is a week long and it confirmed by a man being chosen from the community to have sex with the girl. The boys do not have to be confirmed in that way. Both girls and boys do however also have to be circumcised at this time. All of our jaws dropped in disbelief.

Another thing we could not belive is that when a women loses her husband, a man from the village is chosen to have sex with her which is meant to rid her body of our husbands ghosts. she has no choice whether this is done or who the man is.

I have been oddly in control of my emotions here (seriously, I've only cried once) because amid the poverty and all the stories (which mind you are considered normal as they are part of their culture) Malawians are the happiest people I have ever met. It is rare to see them not smiling. They have been so welcoming and are so interested in talking to "white people". I was told by my boss it's because they all have such wild fantasies of how life is in North America, and Europe. I don't know about a fantasy but I definitely know that i have never appreciated being born and raised in Canada more than I do now. I will never complain about "nothing to eat" in the fridge when there is tons to have just nothing I "feel like", and would definitely like to continue supporting the organization I'm working for YOUDAO (youth development and advancement organization) throughout my life.

I don't have anymore time to write today, and I'm not sure if I will have internet ever in Salima, but know that I am well, and will write another post as soon as I am able.

I hope you are all enjoying your summers and make sure to send an email if you'd like - it is so nice to hear from people at home.

xo Michelle

First Entry from Lilongwe

Moni, muli bwanji? (That means 'Hi, how are you?' in Chichewa - the language of Malawi)

Things in Malawi are great! We have limited access to the internet so I'm not sure how often the blog updates will come, but I will do my best! I'm also going to try to upload some pictures next time I can get to an internet cafe, I've already taken over 300!!!

We arrived to Lilongwe last Thursday (the 12th) around 1:30 but by the time we made it to our house (Crescent Guest House) it was evening. Since this is winter now, it gets dark around 5, so we ate granola bars that night. The time change didn't really affect me at first, but it has caught up with me now, and I'm having a hard time sleeping. Our house is really nice, we have three bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, a kitchen, dinning room, living room - I guess you could say we're not living like most Malawians. The Guest House is a compound surrounded by fence and we have three security guards which are on the grounds at all times. I think we all feel pretty safe.

It's definitely different being out in public though - EVERYONE stares at us and yells 'mzungu' which is Chichewa for 'white person.'

Shoot - our taxi just returned to take us home from the internet cafe, so I will try to write again very soon!!

I miss everyone, and thanks for all the well wishes!!!

xo

Michelle

Itinerary

From Ottawa to Malawi

- June 10th, Air Canada Flight 888 from Ottawa (18:40) to London Heathrow (06:25)
- June 11th, South African Airways Flight 237 from London Heathrow (20:25) to Johannesburg (08:35)
- June 12th, South African Airways Flight 170 from Johannesburg (11:30) to Lilongwe (13:55)

From Malawi to Ottawa

- August 3rd, South African Airways Flight 171 from Lilongwe (14:45) to Johannesburg (17:15)
- August 3rd, South African Airways Flight 234 from Johannesburg (20:10) to London Heathrow (06:25)
- August 4th, Air Canada Flight 889 from London Heathrow (13:00) to Ottawa (15:35)

One Week From Departure

We are one week away from departure and things are becoming quite hectic. Mom and I are driving to Ottawa on Friday (June 6th) for mine and Melanie’s graduations so I’m really at T – 3 days. There are many “to-do” lists floating around, and my head is exploding with things I need to get done before I leave. Amid all the things “to-do”, I’m trying to squeeze in all the last-minute visits before I go. Mom is, thankfully, hosting a going away BBQ on Thursday night, so I’m really looking forward to that, just hopeful that I’ll have everything ready by that point.

It’s finally starting to set in that I’m actually going to be gone for two months, and I never could have imagined how it could feel. It’s hard to put into words, but it is as if I thought life here would be put on hold while I’m away. Whereas, now, as I’m on my way home from looking at apartments in Toronto, I’m realizing there is still a lot I’m going to have to take care of from Malawi – well to the best of my ability anyway.

En tout cas…c’est la vie… and I’m so excited!

The moment I’m anticipating the most is flying from Johannesburg, South Africa into Lilongwe, Malawi, and the landscape I will see. I think that’s when it will feel the most real.

My plan is to write my next entry on our lay-over in London, England (we’re there for 14 hours). I’m going to include with this entry a list of resources that may be of interest to some of you regarding the organization were traveling with as well as Malawi in general.

Please pray for us over this next week as we prepare for departure, as well as for our safety and well-being while we’re in Malawi. Thank you to everyone for all the support I have been given in my decision to do this, and throughout the fundraising and planning stages.

-xo-

Michelle

www.wusc.ca (World University Service of Canada)

www.uniterra.ca (Uniterra)

http://wwwn.cdc.gov/travel/destinationMalawi.aspx (Centre for Disease Control and Prevention - Health Information for Travelers to Malawi)

http://www.voyage.gc.ca/dest/report-en.asp?country=170000 (Foreign Affairs and International Trade Canada - Travel Report - Malawi)

http://www.worldtimeserver.com/current_time_in_MW.aspx?city=Lilongwe (Time Change Clock)

http://www.theweathernetwork.com/weather/mixx0002 (Weather network)